Wednesday, February 27, 2008
MONTE ALBAN MUSEUM
I did not take as many pictures as I should have going through the Monte Alban Museum. There was one picture in particular, of a mural depicting the treatment of war captives, which I should have taken. The rulers of Monte Alban clearly engaged in torture and dismemberment of their captives.
This skull from one of the tombs uncovered in the royal compound show that the ruling class inlaid semi-precious stones in their front teeth.
They also engaged in live trepanation as part of cures performed by their priests. The skull bone shows evidence of partial healing - indicating that the patient was alive for some time after the trepanations.
Numerous treasures were discovered in the many tombs found in Monte Alban. The containers had food for the travel to the after world.
OAXACA - MONTE ALBAN RUINS
This first morning in the Oaxaca area we take a tour bus with our guide Eugenio (Eugene for the tour group) and the driver Amador (Eugene refers to him as Lover Boy for the tour group).
We drive out of the city and up a low mountain range from which we can see the city and the valley below.
The remarkable thing about Monte Alban is that it was founded in 500 BC as a theocratic hierarchical society. It was a Zapotec city dominant - and extracting tribute - over the whole valley and as far away as Mexico City (Teotihuacan) for over 1000 years.
Here is the group gathering at the side of the building complex. To build Monte Alban, the Zapotecs flattened the mountain ridge at an altitude of 6300 feet. The site has been extensively reconstructed, although there are many known archaeological zones in it still not excavated.
This is a nice specimen of the jacaranda tree. At this time of year it is full of lavender or violet flowers.
Here we are in Monte Alban.
The ball court.
Excavations found a large number of residential and civic-ceremonial structures and hundreds of tombs and burials. This is the enormous central plaza. The site’s main civic-ceremonial and elite-residential structures are located around it or in its immediate vicinity.
I climbed the steep steps of the south platform just ahead of the Brewers on the way up.
A school group.
Houses had their own burial chambers in the basement.
Here we are in Monte Alban.OAXACA - STAY IN SANTA MARIA DEL TULE
For our 4 day intensive visit to the Oaxaca valley, we are staying in an RV park that used to be a pig farm in Santa Maria del Tule. It still smells.
As we arrive in town during afternoon rush hour, the wagon master gets one of his lead foot fits and leaves his wife behind at some traffic light - she was driving their toad. She gets lost and he has to go back to find her after we arrive in the camp field.
The Bienvenidos (welcome) gates to the city. This small village is neat. It is only 6 miles from the city of Oaxaca.
A street in Tule.
To the right side of the plaza - in the back - is the spectacular 2000+year-old Tule cypress (Taxodium mucronatum) tree.
It is the thickest living tree in the world with a trunk circumference of 136 feet.
Tule has a very pretty and clean central plaza in the Spanish colonial tradition. Close to the giant Tule tree is this very nice round semi-open Artisans Market. We bought local hand-made clothing articles of good quality here.
We had a number of dinners at this local comedor. The margaritas were quite weak unless we specifically asked for enough cointreau and mezcal anejo in the drink.
As we arrive in town during afternoon rush hour, the wagon master gets one of his lead foot fits and leaves his wife behind at some traffic light - she was driving their toad. She gets lost and he has to go back to find her after we arrive in the camp field.
A street in Tule.Tuesday, February 26, 2008
CLIMBING THE CENTRAL PLATEAU TO OAXACA
Today we spend a good part of the day climbing from the Pacific coast towards Oaxaca, the capital of the Mexican state of the same name. The state of Oaxaca is located at the convergence of the Sierra Madre Oriental and the Sierra Madre del Sur mountain ranges. It has a rugged and mountainous terrain with a large temperate central valley. The average altitude is 5,085 feet above sea level. It is the historic home of the Zapotec and Mixtec peoples, and contains more speakers of indigenous languages than any other Mexican state.
This is our rig photographed from the rear by Anne Lane. Notice our black hitch mounted 4 Kilowatt generator module. It was totally essential in this caravan. The light green area on the right are mezcal plants similar to the ones at the right of this picture. We stopped at a roadside comedor and a Mezcal Factory for lunch. We were lucky to get a tour of the factory from the owner. Mezcal is the generic name for the Tequila liqueur. Tequila is the region of Mexico where the drink originated.

This is the business card for the Mezcal factory (Expendio de Mezcal).
Monday, February 25, 2008
CROSSING MEXICO TO THE WEST COAST - TEHUANTEPEC
We left Palenque for Villahermosa by the Gulf Coast, stopping there only for the night. The next morning early we set out to cross the narrowest part of Mexico - the isthmus of Tehuantepec.
By the end of the day we have crossed tropical mountains and into semi-desert landscapes very reminiscent of the Western US. The closer we got to the Pacific coast, the dryer and rockier.
We leave Villahermosa early and in foggy conditions. Here we are crossing one of the large rivers emptying into the Gulf.
Along the way we cross numerous small villages strung along the main North-South highway between the Gulf coast and the Pacific coast. Here is a contrast between the modern motorcycle and the hammock strung between poles to its right. Remember you can zoom the image by double-clicking it. Use the browser Back button to continue.
The local Home Depot.
A Mini-Super (Market). There are millions of these small general stores and lunch rooms all over Mexico. This one serves liquor in the thatched outdoor dining area to its left.
As we approach Tehuantepec and as the land becomes more arid, mountainous, and hostile indications of poverty and backwardness increase. There is an old style truck.
And an old style plow tractor.
At the end of a long day of driving we wind our way through a small village to the campground entrance. The entrance is an earth embankment dropping off the right of this street. It was scary to even contemplate driving our big rig down there.
Well we made it, but with scratches to the RV roof.
In the evening we are treated to an introduction by the old owner of the place - it is both a mango plantation and campground. He is a village elder and participates in managing the festivals in the town. We are treated to dinner among the mangoes, and to a traditional dress show and recreation of a marriage ceremony.
To the left are our dining tables.
These young ladies model the traditional costumes of the area.
Mike and Eileen from Alberta are the good sports that agreed to serve as the model bride and groom.
Teri carries the earthenware with confetti. At the end she will drop it in front of the couple and it will smash in many pieces.
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